5 Reasons Why Your Amana Refrigerator Is Not Cooling

If your Amana refrigerator is not cooling, it is most likely due to ice buildup, debris on the condenser coils, or a failed component that will need to be replaced. In most cases, these problems can be solved without the need for a trained technician. Before we look at components that may be defective, let’s take a look at some of the more simple reasons why your Amana refrigerator may not be cooling properly.  This guide applies to most Amana refrigerator models, including the following: 12E 12F 12G 12H 12J 12JI AFD2535DEB AFD2535DES AFD2535DEW AFD2535FES AFI2538AES ARB2217CW ARB9059CS ASD2522WRB01 ASD2522WRB04 ASD2522WRS01 ASD2522WRW01 BX22S5W SCD25TW SXD22S2W SXD26VW

Simple Causes

Is the refrigerator getting power?

Sometimes, the refrigerator may not be cooling because of a tripped circuit breaker or power supply fault. Check that the light or display is working, and if not, check for a tripped circuit breaker.

Are the vents and fans blocked?

If there are items inside the refrigerator blocking internal vents or the evaporator fan, the refrigerator will struggle to keep things cool.

Has someone been playing with the thermostat?

Amana refrigerators should be set to 37 degrees Fahrenheit, and freezers set to zero or close to zero degrees Fahrenheit.

1. Dirty Condenser Coils

Refrigerator condenser coils are located either under the refrigerator or behind the refrigerator’s rear access panel. The condenser coils are responsible for cooling and condensing refrigerant as it passes through them.   Dust, dirt and hair can build up on the condenser coils, which reduces their ability to work effectively. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator will struggle to cool and maintain the proper temperature. Follow these instructions to clean condenser coils at the back of the refrigerator:What you will need:

• A quarter-inch nut driver or screwdriver (depending on the model)
• Vacuum with attachments and/or condenser coil cleaning brush

Directions:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power.
2. Move the refrigerator so that you can locate and remove the rear access panel.
3. Remove the rear-access panel with a quarter-inch nut driver or screwdriver.
4. Clean the condenser coils with a vacuum brush attachment or a condenser coil cleaning brush.
5. Clean the condenser, compressor, and condenser fan while the access panel is removed.
6. Once the components are clean, reattach the rear access panel.

Follow these instructions to clean condenser coils underneath the refrigerator: If your Amana refrigerator has condenser coils underneath the refrigerator, a condenser coil cleaning brush will help get under the refrigerator to clean the coils. If you are unable to locate a condenser coil cleaning brush, a vacuum attachment or brush can still be used to clean the condenser coils. However, the coil cleaning brush would make it easier and less likely to cause damage.

2. Defective Evaporator Fan or Motor

The evaporator fan is typically located at the back of the freezer compartment. Evaporator fans pull air over the evaporator coils, removing heat from the air, and circulate cold air throughout the refrigerator and freezer. Over time, the evaporator fan can become clogged with ice or become damaged. The evaporator fan motor can also fail with time and need to be replaced. A problem with the evaporator usually causes the temperature to rise in the refrigerator, while the freezer cools but does not freeze. A failing evaporator fan will usually make a loud, high-pitched noise while failing to sufficiently cool the refrigerator and freezer. Follow these instructions to check and replace the evaporator fan and motor:What you will need:

• A quarter-inch nut driver or screwdriver (depending on the model)
• A multimeter

Directions:

1. Disconnect the power to the refrigerator.
2. Remove items from the refrigerator or freezer to provide access to the evaporator.
3. Remove the panel(s) that covers the evaporator fan with a nut driver or screwdriver. On some models, you may be able to unclip the cover panel.
4. If there is ice buildup around the evaporator fan or coils, defrosting the ice may solve your cooling problem. Most modern refrigerators have an automatic defrost system. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, there may be a problem with the defrost system (see step 5).
5. Rotate the evaporator fan to check it can still rotate without applying too much pressure. If the blade isn’t rotating, the fan motor will likely need to be replaced.
6. Check that the fan is not damaged, cracked, or restricted, and causing the cooling issue. Replace a defective fan blade.
7. If possible and necessary, remove the fan blade from the motor shaft to make the motor easier to remove from the refrigerator.
8. Disconnect the fan motor wiring harness.
9. Unscrew or unclip the fan motor to remove it from the refrigerator or freezer.
10. Test the fan motor for continuity (a continuous electrical path) with a multimeter. If the fan motor is defective, replace it with a new one.

3. Defective Condenser Fan

The condenser fan is located next to the condenser coils. The condenser fan pulls in outside air which cools the condenser coils and compressor. The air is then sent out from the base grille. If the condenser fan is defective, the compressor can overheat or stop working, which will increase the temperature in the refrigerator. Follow these instructions to check and replace the condenser fan and motor:What you will need:

• A quarter-inch nut driver or screwdriver (depending on the model)
• A multimeter

Directions:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power.
2. Move the refrigerator out so that you can access the rear access panel.
3. Remove the rear access panel by removing the screws with a nut driver or screwdriver.
4. Check if the fan blade turns freely. If it doesn’t, the motor is most likely defective and will need to be replaced.
5. Check the fan blade for damage or an obstruction. Replace a defective fan blade.
6. Remove the condenser fan motor from the refrigerator.
7. Using a multimeter, test the fan motor for continuity to determine if it needs replacing.

Other less likely causes

4. Defective Start Relay or Capacitor

Depending on the model, there may be a start relay or capacitor that activates the compressor to turn on and keep the refrigerator cool. If the start relay or capacitor is defective, it will need to be replaced. The start relay or capacitor is located at the back of the refrigerator with the compressor. Either component can be tested for continuity with a multimeter by touching the multimeter prongs to the run and start terminal sockets. If there is no continuity, the start relay or capacitor will need to be replaced.

5. Defective Defrost System

The defrost system in the refrigerator is responsible for defrosting ice and frost build-up. If the evaporator coils have frozen over, a faulty defrost system is likely to blame. Depending on the model, the defrost system consists of a defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and a defrost control. Depending on your model, the defrost control may consist of a defrost control board or defrost timer. The heater and thermostat can be tested with a multimeter for continuity. If either component fails the continuity test, it will need to be replaced.