LG Washing Machine Error Codes: What Do They Mean?

Have you ever seen an error code on your washing machine and had no idea what it meant? You’re not alone. Many people find error codes confusing and frustrating. Error codes are designed to give you a specific diagnosis of what is wrong with your washing machine so you can fix the problem. However, they can often be vague and leave you feeling more confused than ever.

This guide will help demystify some of the most common error codes so you can get your washing machine up and running again. We’ll start with the most common codes and move on to the less common ones. By the end of this guide, you should have a good understanding of what each error code means. So, let’s get started!

Most error codes can be resolved with a reset

The first thing you’ll want to do is unplug the machine and wait 10 seconds. This will give the device a chance to reset itself. Plug the machine back in and attempt to resume the cycle. In most cases, this will fix the problem.

However, if the error continues, it’s best to call a technician. They will be able to diagnose the problem and get your washer back up and running in no time.

Front load washer error codes

OE: the washer is unable to drain the water it used during the wash cycle. This can be triggered by a kinked drain hose or a clogged drain pump filter.

IE: the washer was unable to fill with water. During cold and freezing weather conditions, this could mean the water in the water supply lines are frozen. Once the temperature increases above freezing, the water supply will resume.

UE/Ub: an unbalanced or uneven load.

CL: child lock is engaged.

LE: the motor is locked, possibly due to a heavy wash load. Performing a reset on the washer will normally resolve this error with a reduced load size. But if the error code displays on every washing cycle, the unit will require a repair service.

TCL: it is time to run a tub clean cycle.

dE: the washer door was unable to lock. This can normally be resolved by performing a simple reset on the washing machine.

CE: there has been an overcurrent in the motor. This can be caused by a short circuit, loose connection, ground fault or power surge.

SUD: there are too many suds. The washer will run a suds cleaning cycle, adding two hours to the current cycle.

Cd: This is not an error code. The dry cycle has ended and the machine has entered a “cooldown” cycle to prevent wrinkles from forming.

DE1/Del/DEL: the door is open and unlocked. A reset should resolve the issue.

DE2: the door is closed but unlocked. A reset should resolve this issue.

FE: the washer is overfilling, usually because of a faulty water valve.

PE: the water level sensor has malfunctioned.

PF: a power failure has occurred.

tE: indicates overheating, usually caused by a faulty thermistor. Call a technician.

Top load washer error codes

IE: see above.

OE: the washer is not draining. See above.

Ub/UE: the load is unbalanced.

E6: there is an error with the clutch. This can occur when an object, such as a coin, gets stuck between the tub and the pulsator. Check the tub for any loose objects or coins that could be causing the issue.

CL: see above.

TCL: the tub needs to run a cleaning cycle

dE: there has been an issue with the door lock. dE1 indicates that the drawer is open and unlocked. dE2 indicated that the drawer is closed, but unlocked. A reset can resolve the issue.

DL: the door latch is not working properly.

DR: the unit is draining.

CE: the unit is not able to rotate properly. Call a technician.

FE: see above.

LE: the motor is locked, possibly due to a heavy load, or an object stuck between the wash plate and inner basket.

PE: see above.

SUD: see above.

D3: malfunctioning coupling. Call a technician.

TE: thermistor malfunction. Call a technician.